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||1989 - 2005
||FULL KIT W/ END LINKS
As used by MiataRoadster sponsored racers, 2015 & 2016 SCCA Solo National Champions Billy Davis (CSP) and Tamra Lee Hunt (CSPL).
Small Fortune Racing’s front anti-sway bar kit is a true race-caliber component: a tubular Steel torsion shaft moves completely freely within sealed bearings vs. commonplace bars whose rotation is restricted by friction with the Urethane bushings that they are clamped within.
The kit includes a splined-end 1.25” diameter x .125” wall tubular Steel torsion bar, splined Aluminum side arms, Steel chassis mounts, sealed ball bearings, Teflon-lined rod ends end links (with opposing-thread Aluminum coupling nuts that don’t require removal to adjust), (2) clamping shaft collars, and all necessary fasteners.
Replaces the flimsy sheet metal stock chassis sway bar mounts that are prone to tearing from use with heavy bars.
Compatible with the stock plastic belly pan, so legal for SCCA Solo Street and STR classes.
1) Remove intake cross tube from throttle body. Clear area behind radiator of any hoses or other obstructions. Drain coolant. Remove radiator/fans. Remove old end links. Remove saddle brackets and bushings mounting the old anti-sway bar. Remove the bar by sliding and wiggling it around the chassis rails. On NA, remove lower radiator side support brackets. Remove two bolts on each side of sway bar mounts. Drill out spot welds between the bolt holes on each side of the mounts. A chisel and hammer or pneumatic chisel may be required to break the spot welds.
2) Install the new bar mounts with bearings, observing the etched directions for outside and top.
3) Slide one clamping shaft collar onto one end of the sway bar and hand tighten. Slide the torsion bar through the bearings.
4) Install bearings to the chassis brackets with supplied 1” bolts, washers and locknuts. Insert bolts from the insides of the brackets. Order of assembly from inside to outside is: mount, bearing plate, bearing, and bearing plate. Center the torsion bar and tighten the clamping shaft collars flush with the bearings to prevent the sway bar from shifting.
5) Coat the exposed shiny ends of the bar with a light coat of grease to prevent corrosion. Coat the splines of the sway bar lightly with anti-sieze and install the side arms, taking care to clock them to the same position. Milled surfaces go toward the inside of the car.
6) Torque the pinch bolts to 25-30 ft./lbs. These bolts will need to be checked for torque after 50-100 miles. After re-torque they do not need to rechecked.
7) Install the rod end end links. Links can be positioned on either side of the mount lug on the suspension, but the links should be as vertical as possible. To utilize all of the adjustment range, the links will need to be moved from the front of the lug to the rear or vice-versa. Torque link bolts to 20-25 ft./lbs.
8) Attach one link to the arm and suspension. Links fasten to the outside of the sway bar arm with the nuts and washers on the inside.
9) Links should be adjusted to yield zero pre-load on the sway bar when the car is on the ground and the driver is in place. The easiest way to adjust the pre-load is to roll the car onto a platform such as a 6×6 board or oil change ramp and have a helper adjust the link length on the second link. It is very important to roll the car onto the platform with the driver in place! Do not jack up the car and drop it onto the platform without rolling it! Do not turn the wheels, but set the link length with the wheels straight ahead.
10) Torsion bar rates: Softest position = hole closest to the end of the side arm. Stiffest position = hole closest to the torsion bar.